Journalist WomanHit.ru Zhanna Golubitskaya reports from behind the scenes of the shows of the Milan fashion week and dispels the most common myths about the fashion industry
Myth 4: fashion a lot of the young...
Vintage boom is gaining momentum — and moves things and people. Along with the vintage mood in Vogue antiracism (from age) — the movement against the "age limit" in fashion, sharing her youth and "elegant" — for people over a certain age. As opposed to "ageism", promoting the dismissive and derisive attitude towards people 50+ who continue to look after themselves and dress "young", antiraciste oppose age segregation in fashion in favor of the equality of all ages the consumption of the latest trend of new products..
The clearest proof of the triumph of antiracism Milan streets during fashion Week. The brighter dressed walking with a dog on the street Montenapoleone, the lady and the higher the heel, the more she is. The young prefer a more sporty style — jeans, sneakers, t-shirts, hoodies. It reflects their way of life — making money, walking little kids... And the seniors "life-style" stately-relaxed — and outfits to match. So sit elegant Italian grandma and grandpa in a cafe with aperitifs in broad daylight and according to the degree of lightness of being and chic "bow" comparable only to that of the Golden youth. Because only these two categories of citizens (pensioners and millionaires) have the opportunity during fashion Week weekday arrive to the place of the show, to be in the restaurant across the street and watch as cars come from all sorts of fashionable idols. Usually fashion shows are held in different places of the city and last between 15 minutes to 30 minutes, the invitation is not at all, and certainly not everyone is eager to get inside, often the outside is even more interesting.
INES de La Her 60 years, but it still works, modellfoto: Instagram.com/inesdelafressangeofficial
"Pensioner" a lesson I get before the show Dolce&Gabanna. Near the door of the building, stops the car, he was immediately tight ring cordoned off the crowd. Out of the car jumps, it seemed to me, a frail young man, is rapidly rushing through a dense human corridor and Urkal inside. In these three seconds, the crowd explodes with a frantic roar of delight and leans forward, throwing me straight into the arms of two elderly Sirs, from head to toe in "dolcegabana". I'm sorry, Signori, smiling, and then I allow myself the question: "who was that?" Dear grandfather upset like I'm misleading them that suffer from mental retardation. Looking at me sympathetically and patiently explain how sick in the head:
Is Domenico. Dolce. Designer. The whole world knows.
So I joined "all the world". For the upcoming season, Italian designers really badly to feed the nostalgia of those whose age and social heyday was in the 90s. Almost all the new collections present referring to the time — forged shoulders, jackets with gold braid, a La Michael Jackson, leather and denim "jackets" in waist, leather, suede and denim mini and fishnet tights like Madonna of the late 80's, shiny fabrics, gold lace and rhinestones...
Some Renaissance 90 veiled, while others declare, for example, Donatella Versace. Her new collection she dedicated to the memory of his murdered in 1997, his brother — and for the first time in his independent career he created things "in the spirit of the heyday of Gianni", using a signature-print Versace, gold on white and turquoise, elongated jackets with a slouchy shoulders with gold, white and shiny black leggings, business suits with long jackets and cropped shorts color "ashes of roses" and other delights that have made our 90-e is not only dashing, but also spread. Shows, which opened today's podium stars sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid, Donatella was accompanied by the soundtrack, which was set to music his own words, expressing her infinite love and gratitude to the deceased brother: "You gave us women the freedom to be yourself. It is difficult to suppress anger, but beauty soothes and inspires. The only real in our world — love. Today it's all for you, Janie".
The triumphant release of forever young legends of the podium – a 51-year-old Cindy Crawford, 49-year-old Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, a 48-year-old Helena Christensen and 47-year-old Naomi Campbell and Claudia Suffertoo: Instagram.com/cindycrawford
And in the final Jani, who was eyeing certainly a colorful show from the heavens, waiting for a truly Royal gift from sister Donatella personally introduced to the main runway favorite brother. Stars era of the 90s, which is exactly what Jani did so, for the first of the designers insisted on the fact that every model should have its own face, personality and lifestyle. That is Gianni Versace was the first to pay the "faces" of their brand fabulous fees, distinguish them from the faceless crowd standard "hangers" and thanks to him, the model has received the status of the prefix "top". These top models, whose heyday was in the 90s, and closed the show Versace spring-summer-2018, demonstrated by their figures and faces in the world of the spirit age is not terrible. The triumphant release of forever young legends of the podium — a 51-year-old Cindy Crawford, 49-year-old Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, a 48-year-old Helena Christensen and 47-year-old Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer as a symbol of the Renaissance of the fashion of those years when they were at the peak of fame, but the message of antiracism. Take care of yourself and fashion, and old age will recede, for it is only in our heads. If your life in beauty, it is endless, as endless beauty.
This thesis confirms the continuity on the runway: the majority of Italian designers continue and develop the family business and their fashion houses were born and grew from a small family company. The "face" of these houses, too, pass the baton to the younger generations — at the Milan Week of a labour dynasty showed Cindy Crawford, presenting the fashion world his 16-year-old daughter Kaya Gerber. And Milan-2017 had made heiress Cindy the stars.
Kaya opened the show Moschino, preceded by the appearance of the star sisters Hadid, then appeared on the catwalk in Versace fashion show with mom's friend Naomi Campbell and immediately started talking about her as "the second Crawford." The daughter really looks a lot like her famous mom in those most steeped in nostalgia 90s. especially in the sign of the period outfits — fishnet stockings, jackets-the black leather jackets and romantic dresses covered with flowers. Accessories also refer to 20 years ago: giant pins, rough boots and shoes, spikes, hats with sequins and chokers. And instead overexposed Barbie and disney cartoons on t-shirts t-shirt back prints with unicorns and ponies from the 90's.
Supported their way of fashionista vigilant and Ksenia Sobchak, appeared in Milan in "Luka" from the 90s — thick sweaters, jeans with a high waist and voluminous coats like from the man's shoulder. I must admit that Xenia was ahead of the fashion idea: before Milan she posted on instagram a picture of, called the network people "Biryulevo-bow". It is our style icon in the antediluvian MIDI skirt, boring boots to mid-calf, sweater and blouse, "from under Friday Saturday" cloak "a La Cherkizon", with a grocery bag and a plaid wallet dropship. Next — a gentleman in bolognia sortcolumn and with a waist a man purse — in the 90 shuttles market traders and traders hid "lave". "All these business suits, makeup, feminism, and calls for progress is useless. Tired but still looking for a meat carrier female with eggs is what the country needs!!!!" — signed the MS Sobchak (original spelling preserved). And how to treat it either, its humor, irony and courage it is impossible not to appreciate.
Returns in the 90s and Armani, although the title concept of the House — impressionism. But its framework fits the famous crimson "new Russian" club jacket-unisex, giant fake shoulders, turning the young lady in motion, and strongly tapered to the waist long jackets, decorating the "rolling" waist Barbie.
According to tradition, during the "women's" weeks can be just a capsule (small) men's collection — and Vice versa. Young Russian fashionista — fashion bloggers popular portal VogueDiary — this year received invitations to all the important fashion shows of the marathon from London, including Milan and ending with Paris. They reported on male trends, the fundamental of which is the suit. From now on, every gentleman who wishes to be trendy should have in her wardrobe at least two suits — formal and informal. What might an "informal" suit, showed Ermenegildo Zegna and Armanimania. This, for example, strict tuxedo and pants, coat and sweat pants, or Vice versa — simple, classic pants and "sweatshirt". Agree, something similar we already saw 20 years ago, when business was often done informally, and the office often became a place for recreation and entertainment. Frankly, it seems that we have moved away from this brave eclecticism more recently... But Milan streetstyle has started to meet her again.
Myth 5:... and thin!
Fashion has ceased to be destiny of disembodied largely thanks to the tireless battle between bodyshapers (from the English. body — body shaming — shame), pursuing thick, and bodypositive, with fists to prove that beauty is not thinness. Battles take place in social networks, which is lined with photos of celebrities, representing the position of the warring parties.
Overseas bodyshaper ruthlessly attacking star models Gigi Hadid and Kim Kardashian and even the master of fashion Karl Lagerfeld. Domestic practice under photos Anastasia Volochkova, Xenia Sobchak.
Adipositivity claim that your body need to take any, but the bait is not worse of bodyshapers. Recently attacked as his idol — the famous model of the "mother bed" (large size) Ashley Graham. Barely bodypositive seemed that Ashley has lost some weight as her page was accused: "You're like those Hollywood monsters that came under the influence of the idea that beautiful is thin!" Discouraged, Ashley was immediately posted my picture in a bikini with cellulite in all its glory. Adipositivity behind, but his head raised bodyshaper. The model acted as a peacemaker, making a Manifesto against the persecution of "corporal sign": "For some, I'm too full-figured, for others — too tall, too Busty, too loud, and now too thin. When I post pictures 'good side", I am criticized for the fact that I look more lean and are trying to sell yourself. When I post pictures where you can see my cellulite, my stretch and folds, I was accused of promoting obesity."
Still pinching myself after showing my lingerie collection during
As a result, in ecolmodel the world trend was to ignore the flaws of the figure of the dandy and his age. It is encouraging that this new-fangled trend perfectly matches not only with the long-known rules of good parenting, but also with simple human feeling.
And for those who have delicacy problems, even published a memo "is not fashionable" phenomena:
Lookism (from the English. look — look, an image, a synonym for bodyshaping) — criticism of body image.
Fatphobia (from the English. fat is fat phobia — fear) — the persecution of people who are overweight.
Skinnylaminx (from skinny skinny shaming — shame ) is the pursuit of too thin people.
Ageism (age — age) — ridiculing the "age" of people who follow the novelties in the "youth" fashion.
In the light once again entered the fashion tact even Linda Evangelista, without a valid reason "walk" defile the memory of his master Gianni Versace, drove almost kindly. Why in the "Golden composition" legends of the podium of the sample 90, another one darling Jani, paparazzi asked immediately. And very soon produced a photo of 52-year-old former top model in new York airport. Some gasped, as the "Linda launched himself", but immediately pulled the most, Recalling that "in this age, a woman should not look like a 20-year-old girl, and a similar weight gain due to hormonal changes because of age". And stressed that the face of the Evangelists smooth and youthful, and she looks calm and peaceful.
Driven by the trend, some almost ethereal stars also "throw a bone" bodypositive publicly reporting how they got fat and did on this occasion do not grieve. So 22-year-old American top model Gigi Hadid on September 21, right after the Fendi show, where he was with his sister Bella, happily told the world media that when she got in the car to go to the show, her "pink checkered pants ripped at the seam"! News Gigi added a selfie of his broken pants.
To be continued...