About the unusual parts of our wardrobe — in today's fashionable investigation
The onset of cold — the perfect excuse to layer up and add to the wardrobe a couple of accessories that will transform your image. What would it be? Familiar to all of us scarves or knitted snudy? Leather gloves or cosy mittens? You can select all at once, opting for the clutch, which again — after a few centuries! was on top of the fashion Olympus.
Unlike many accessories, was born thanks to the wit and mind of common coupling — the invention exclusively aristocratic. Once upon a time, in the XIV century, the noble citizens of Europe wore clothing with long sleeves, which in the cold hid his effeminate hands. In Italy, the style was called zibellini, which literally means "sable". Animal skins decorated with gold, pearls and precious stones, worn on the crook of the arm or on the belt. It was really a status thing, despite the legend that these chic sleeves contemptuously called "bahromkami".
Pouch with a secret
Directly coupling such as we are accustomed to see them — appeared in Florence. Ladies wore miniature "purses" of Swan's down on a long tape, saving your fingers from the wind, walking through the Palazzo of stone. From the beginning the clutch was made with a fur inside. Well, to show off all their wealth and riches, the ladies were chosen for the finishing of luxurious fabrics, adorned them with fine embroidery and precious accessories.
By the way, a cousin of the famous painter Titian, Vecellio, Cesare, followed the tastes of women choosing this accessory. In one of his historical articles, he said: "in Winter, they wear of the clutch from a good fur — they are lined with silk, velvet, or other matter". The first models were replaced with women handbags, which a reverent noblewoman kept various trinkets, purses and even carried their small dogs!
Recall: medieval Europe was a place, far from ideal. The dregs poured from the Windows into the streets, lack of sewage and strange ideas about hygiene made itself felt. Often scented clutch saved the noses of ladies who at the approach of the odor hiding her face in the fragrant fur. So fashion clutch seized even monarchs, royalty urgently introduced functional fur bag in your closet. There is a legend that a Huguenot was presented to the Queen of England Elizabeth I is richly embellished clutch, not naguchev her. "I don't know your preferences!" — justified the hapless fan.
The cavalier choice
Men also could not pass up the accessory, which has helped their ladies, and soon many prominent gentlemen, ladies and Monsieur got its own clutch. Some, however, went further. So, the king of France, Henry III was seen repeatedly wearing women's dresses, lovely parts of a woman's closet, and even cosmetics. Andre bloom in his book "the Last Valois," described effeminate monarch: "He loved the perfume, cosmetics, earrings, velvet and satin clutches, trimmed with fur, — in fact, a whole Arsenal of ways in which previously used only by women." In fact, couplings Henry was a collection that impressed the imagination of his descendants.
But, perhaps, these details tended to only those men that were seen in the passion for the same gender (as, for example, and Henry himself)? Not at all! So, in 1689, the famous Louis XIV was hosted by the English king, a fugitive James II. And the rulers themselves, and their courtiers were dressed in the latest fashions: kaftans-gustatory, lush jabot and cuffs, long wigs. Of course, not without its socket, they served as a kind of marker that you can see how well versed in the Palace of fashion or that of the noble Lord. Clutches were exchanged, boasted, was a collector and kept as a rich dowry. The "sun king" was very exotic tastes: his tailors used to clutch the fur of the tiger, Panther and beaver.
Male passion fur bags have approved not all. The Duchess of Newcastle — the one that set the trend for fly — in every way taunted about the fashion. "How can a man rule the horse or hold a sword if he put his hands in the clutch?" — rightly noticed skandalistka known.
Over time, the size of the couplers was varied. The men did admonish the indignant ladies began to wear the almost invisible tiny Muff which is more like a modern purses. Women are trying to stand out, preferring a clutch of enormous size. By the XVIII century these accessories became in the likeness of the "baggage", which regularly postponed many dear to a girl's heart things.
In the quest to outdo each other women reached the point of absurdity. The dimensions of the once elegant clutches all increased. Their length was such that the fur touched the ground. As aptly noticed by the Cavaliers, the feeling that their fragile handles the young lady bears a haystack.
The situation was saved by the appearance of publications, where he wrote articles with recommendations on what materials, what colors and sizes should be clutch "decent ladies". Here he advises a real lady Fitzroy Stewart, one of the authors of the "Encyclopedia for women": "the Clutch must be chosen to suit not only your funds but also with your lifestyle, and your appearance". Ladies "body" was recommended to avoid the clutches of the big, fur with long pile, white and color. They were offered bags are small, square, smooth noble animal mink. Fragile and petite girls small stature wouldn't have to wear big, fluffy Muff.
In the same article Fitzroy tells exactly how a noble lady should wear a clutch. "From I met a dozen women I counted five, which carried a clutch in front of him if he were dragging heavy packages, one grabbed the sleeve and skirt of the same hand, the two hid in clutch their frozen noses, one brandished it like a toy, and only a tenth carried the precious bundle of fur like a true Parisian." As for men's preferences, then the clutch has not been quite expelled from use. Even Wilhelm II, king of Prussia and the last Emperor of Germany, proudly posed for the photographer with a fur accessory in his hands. Men have discovered and the functional aspect of this once "feminine" of the bag. It was extremely convenient to store small amount of ammo or a cleaning kit for weapons.
In the mid-twentieth century clutch recognized and fell in love with a Hollywood star who used it as a means of insulation, but as a stylish detail to your luxurious, rich images. Wore fur "handbags" Marlene Dietrich and Sophia Loren, Katherine Hepburn and Lauren Bacall. Then the demand for elegant fur subsided, and convenient clutch has evolved from a necessary extra accessory. It was only the beginning of a new century, designers again turned to this fashionable form. Particularly successful in the presentation of couplings of the brand Celine and Balenciagа: they combine different textures and fabrics, inventing clutch on the one hand, vertical scarves-clutch. Some brands (for example, Tory Burch) inspired by the Golden era of "sun king".
By the way, in the English language, the clutch is called a clutch isn't everything just falls into place? Modern miniature clutch bags have become a convenient alternative to fur clutches, but nevertheless are unable to displace them from the pedestal. Today, the fashion for them returned. And we can feel like a lady, sedately and with dignity, carrying your accessory, which — the whole story.history, fashion, clutch