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Women's pants vs. men's skirts: fashion history of the war of the sexes

A few decades ago, skirts and pants had a clear gender identity, but today it is almost wiped

Has little surprises kilt on the man and the woman in pants do not attract special attention. However, it was not always so. What makes a strong half of humanity to look at the skirts, and women — to defend their right to wear pants? About the history of confrontation between skirts and pants in fashionable investigation

Despite the fact that gender roles were divided almost immediately after our ancestors took up tools and started climbing the evolutionary top, the clothes were the same for both ladies and for gentlemen. We are talking about skins, all kinds of capes and togas — how can we remember these ancient "models," male and female closet practically did not differ. Any special need to emphasize the difference between the sexes with the help of clothes just wasn't there. And so it went, our ancestors in a long and very comfortable and spacious the robes that met their goals: to protect from the sun or, conversely, to warm.

What barbarism!

Need to outfit different from the usual covers that appeared in the era of global conquest when horses were domesticated and adapted to human needs. Riding in a skirt for men has become the procedure almost unbearable, and tailors the Scythian tribes invented to sew the usual long garment to protect the inner thighs of warriors. First, this thing was designed strictly for riding, but soon it began to wear "just in case" — suddenly have to ride a horse, and you in a skirt? From the invention of the Scythians came to the Gauls, barbarian tribes, shocked the Roman people. For a long time pampered patricians forbade trousers as the clothing of savages. For their wearing was supposed to pay a fine.

Женские брюки против мужских юбок: история модной войны полов

The Golden age of Hollywood in the pants start to appear the most prominent stars generation – such as Audrey Cabernet from the film "Breakfast at Tiffany's"

Women to newfangled item of clothing reacted with curiosity, but restrained. Ladies in the heyday and decline of the Roman Empire was seen as a decoration of life. Any special things besides household chores, women were observed, and enter in your closet pants they simply was not necessary. Requests to female along spoke exactly two: that he was comfortable and spoke about the status of its owner.

The fashion for trousers invaded Europe with the popularity of socks and stockings, which began to gain the attention of the audience around the XIII century. Remember how in the movie "kin-DZA-DZA!" talked about the pants? "When society has no color differentiation of pants, then there is no purpose! And when no purpose — has no future!" About that reasoning, our ancestors, trying to make this garment "signal", which would tell others about the wealth and class of vehicle. Color, shape, length, material value had everything. In France, for example, long pants were worn strictly poor, short, knee length, complete with stockings and shoes with buckles — only the upper class. The most important mods wore over the so-called engrave, which is a chic panties with lots of ruffles. This fashionable differentiation was relevant right up to the French revolution.

Women with passion and enthusiasm took over men's clothing, the pants treated with caution until the XX century. Variations on a theme — breeches and riding tights — worn strictly as underwear. Pants as a separate item of dress was considered a disgrace and vulgarity. It is difficult to assess the scale of the revolutionary activities of Coco Chanel, because the pants girls are already almost more often than in skirts. But nevertheless: when the designer was wearing wide trousers, reminiscent of the flared skirt, the gentlemen were shocked by her new look. Overcoming the resistance of the masses pantsuits began to emerge the stars of the prewar and wartime eras. The most memorable release was the role of Marlene Dietrich in film "Morocco", where the actress appeared in the form of men. Six months later, the German made the coat almost my uniform.

The cult of the kilt

Женские брюки против мужских юбок: история модной войны полов

Kilt and today remains an integral part of the culture, Scotlandite:

If it was in the beginning of XX century in the fashion world something more awesome than a woman in pants is a man who dared to wear a skirt. When the wardrobes of the ladies and gentlemen finally split up, to cover legs long clothes was for men not just weird — embarrassing! Only a few of the nation remain true to its traditions and among them the highest mountain of the Scots with their kilts eloquent. Why is it that the warlike people not accustomed comfortable pants?

It's simple: in my pants there was no need. As in ancient times, the Scots make it easier to tie around the waist and warm fabric, instead of having to open the production of unnecessary new items. Cavalry in the mountainous terrain did not pass, so the horse associates the legendary William Wales rode rarely, preferring to fend off attacks by the British with the infantry. When Scotland was finally conquered, the kilt was a symbol by which to learn of the Scot. Subdued, but not broken the people were forbidden to wear the traditional plaid skirt. The British tried to suppress the national consciousness, imposing its own rules, including in the wardrobe. So, men were supposed to wear pants. The clever Scots ignored the ban: they either wore pants, but took long poles-the poles, which, like a banner fluttering kilts, or left the right to wear them, spitted on poles English clothes. Today, the kilt remains an integral part of the culture of Scotland. It was released Sean Connery and Alexander McQueen, Ewan McGregor and James McAvoy. In a sign of solidarity and respect to the nation a kilt tried on and the English Prince Charles.

In addition to the Scots, and was sympathetic to the people of Oceania and Southeast Asia. Men Cambodia, India, Indonesia and Bangladesh can hardly be suspected of femininity, despite the fact that they wear long sarongs. In order for dignity to wear such a robe, you must have some experience. By the way, underwear under the sarong — like under the kilt is not worn.

That all changed with the advent of hippies, when once again the rebellious spirit broke gender stereotypes and mixed roles (and wardrobes). By the eighties fashion stylist ray Petri started to put on men models women's skirts. Note — not kilts and sarongs, namely skirts. The same thing almost simultaneously with Petri made and Jean-Paul Gaultier. He talked about his ideas: "a Man can wear women's clothes, female — male, and both remain myself."

Женские брюки против мужских юбок: история модной войны полов

Jaden Smith wore women's clothes for the advertising campaign Louis VuittonФОТО: INSTAGRAM.COM/CHRISTIAINGREY

With the advent of the new century, the trend to merge wardrobes gaining momentum. Five years ago, audiences struggled to understand eccentric collections of Rick Owens, Marc Jacobs and Jeremy Scott. Bring in the top new trend old has helped celebrities, have been featured in women's skirts for the cameras. Among the star fans to dress in something flying soloist Guns N ' Roses Axl rose and rapper Kanye West. By 2009, the men's skirt came from H&M brand, and a year later it announced trend major men's magazine. Now the same skirt have many labels. Even the person deprived of an opportunity to spend a few hundred dollars on a designer thing, you can find in the segment of fast fashion long t-shirt sticking out from under the upper garment like a skirt.

Of course, are the ones the trend is shocking and even insulting. But not to rebel in vain, it is worth remembering the story of two opposite, but loved items whether male, whether female wardrobe.

history, fashion, skirt, kilt

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